Everyday Hero

My friend Aapo recently started working at Finnish Elle, and his new job has included some awesome business trips.  On a recent visit to attend some fashion-related parties and events in Warsaw, he met Polish designer Robert Kupisz, who got his start as a celebrated hairdresser before deciding to launch his clothing line in the spring.  Robert's collection is very Aapo, and of course he sent over the images for me to have a look at.  For winter, Robert was inspired by the historical Polish heroes of the Warsaw Uprising, the rebellion staged by the Polish Resistance to liberate Warsaw from the Nazis (I admit, I had to do a little Wiki research, as Polish history isn't exactly my area of expertise).  While the inspiration may be serious, the overall feeling was uplifting and lyrical, with a strong sense of national pride.  I look forward to seeing more from Robert, who can be seen modeling his menswear collection below.

-Tiffany

Boys Will Be Boys

I have to admit, I don't really have much of an opinion when it comes to Men's clothing. For me, it usually just falls into three categories: love, hate, or meh. Generally speaking though, I do really like Odyn Vovk's clothes, and the consistently dark, grifter aesthetic he creates. This season, designer Austin Sherbanenko took a rather improvisational approach to the collection, allegedly tapping his subconscious to create everything from the garments to the final presentation for the show. Sherbanenko's pieces aren't realized until the fabrics and textiles are in hand, and they are what dictate the design, pattern and cut. To showcase his off-the-cuff design style, Sherbanenko hired a musician who wrote his guitar piece on the spot, and hastily put together the elements of the set and presentation hours before the show started. The result perfectly showcased his precisely undone look.

-Tiffany

Odyn Vovk Fall 2010

I have a back log of pictures to post, but these past few days has been more about getting things done than seeing many shows or attending any parties (unless I'm throwing them). Nonetheless, I managed to stop by Odyn Vovk show on Friday night before Claudia's sick office party at Pier 59 Studios (baby tiger cubs!) and hosting at the Ed Bangers Record party.

I have to be perfectly honest and say that as much as I love black jersey, leather, etcetera, it's a little difficult for me to distinguish how Vovk's show differ from season to season. However, I did make a few observations. For me, the Fall 2010 collection recalled Richard Avedon's series of photographs of drifters in the American West. The models were made up to look scruffy, weather worn and sunburnt, and resembled off-duty coal miners or oil rig workers (albeit very good looking ones). In turn, the clothes bore the same broken-in feel. Many of them appeared to be typical work garments that had been deconstructed and reconfigured to fit into Vovk's vision, which always seems part gothic, part post-apocalyptic. Here are a few of the stand out looks in the collection.

-Tiffany

Rodarte for Dudes

I'm in Maui for New Years, but I wanted to take a short break from the beach to post these pictures of the Rodarte's first foray into Men's wear, which just arrived at Opening Ceremony. They've taken their signature cobwebby knits, and made them into men's pullovers and cardigans, which actually look pretty unisex to me. In these pictures, taken from the Opening Ceremony website, they're modeled on our friend Sean, who you might recognize as the tattooed bod in the recent spate of McQ advertisements. I think they look quite awesome as a fishnet-like layer over all his tattoos, even though I doubt my own husband would wear them with quite as much panache (actually, he wouldn't wear them at all). It's also a reminder to get back to finishing my own Rodarte style sweater, which is half-way through being latch-hooked, and must be completed so I can start making one of these (for myself though, not for any boy).

-Tiffany

Heart of Darkness

Last week, I stopped by Agentur V to take a peek at the Spring 2010 collections. One of the most immediately captivating lines was Misomber Nuan, based out of Berlin. Although the drapey clothing looked deceptively like women's wear on the hangers, a quick flip through the lookbook made it clear that the collection was meant for men. Not the waifish androgynous types, but strong, brooding men, of the Ernest Hemingway variety. Amongst the abstract sources of inspiration, the image of a shipbuilder hauling loads of twisted steel is referenced, and one imagines this hulking man shrouded in various layers of Misomber Nuan. Although I don't know many muscle men myself, I do know plenty of svelte lads who would still love to swath themselves in these precisely crafted and constructed clothes. In fact, the dim photographs of the lookbook model almost appears to be my friend Chris, of Violet Hour. Listen up boys (you know who you are!), I think I just found your new favorite designer.

-Tiffany

His and Hers

Jil Sander x Uniqlo tailcoat, Mischen dress, YSL tribute boots, vintage beret, Adrienne Landau sequined scarf, Triskaidekaphobia necklace, fake pearls from the district, Iosselliani ring

I never really understood the concept of going out and buying a 'boyfriend' jacket. Why not just steal/share your boyfriend's (or your brother, roommate or gay best friend's) jacket instead? With this sensitivity to economy in mind, I went to check out the Jil Sander for Uniqlo collection last week, later than most of the die-hard fans, but just in the nick of time to snatch up the last remaining tailcoat jacket that had been on my wishlist. Of course, since I was late, it was two sizes too large, but I liked the louche, oversized quality, and also figured that it would probably fit my slim husband perfectly, making it an ideal piece for us to both share.

However, when I brought the coat home, Jimmy thought otherwise. He immediately complained that it wasn't his style, that he would have never chosen it out for himself, and that it was way too formal for him to wear on a regular basis. As soon as he put it on though, he couldn't deny the incredible fit, and began to tepidly experiment with it. I tried to help him along by encouraging him to dress it down, less he be mistaken for a doorman at the Waldorf Astoria.

I guess I might have sold the shared jacket a little too hard, and on Saturday night, as we prepared to leave the house for my party at TriBeCa Grand, we both reached for the jacket. Even though I had prepared my outfit for the jacket, he claimed that it completed his 19th century drunken poet look (complete with grotesquely wine-stained teeth), and would have to change his entire outfit if I took the jacket from him. Not willing to endure any more slow-motion outfit changes from my inebriated companion, I conceded, and let him wear it, although I made him brush his teeth, and had him take a few outfit photos of me in it beforehand. Next time I will remember to buy my own boyfriend jacket.

Jil Sander x Uniqlo coat, American Apparel button down shirt, Marc Jacobs corduroy pants, Church's brogues.

-Tiffany

Scandinavians Do It Better

On Saturday night, I was hanging out at my friend Chet's apartment, when I noticed a giant hooded cardigan lying on his bed. I immediately grabbed it and asked what it was, and not surprisingly, found out it was made by Swedish-born designer Lars Andersson, for whom Chet freelances as a press agent. I'm a sucker for nice knits, since quite frankly, they're difficult to find; items that meet the requirements of being warm and practical, as well as being stylish and wearable are a rare occurrence. The cardigan I found on Chet's bed had comforting appeal of a snuggie, but rather than draping like a clunky grandma sweater when he put it on, it gave him the appearance of a Blade Runner era Dark Lord. It only seems natural that some of the best knitwear comes from a Scandinavian, given their familiarity with freezing weather, and I'm definitely thinking of picking one of the unisex pieces up for our own bracing New York winter. Here are some of my favorites, with Chet modeling some of the sweaters himself.

-Tiffany

Petrouman Spring 2010

On Monday afternoon, I had the pleasure of viewing one of my favorite collections thus far, my friend Nicolas Petrou's new line of menswear, Petrouman. I already had seen plenty of images of the collection, so I had an idea of what to expect, but I was totally floored when I walked in to find a sea of male models covered from head-to-toe in boldly patterned body stockings that brilliantly mimicked the lookbook shots. Apparently, these models were very good looking underneath, but who could tell under the bodysuits, which zipped up in the back, and had a somewhat creepy covered mask over the face, ensuring complete anonymity. While the bodysuits could have easily stolen the show, the clothing layered over them was equally bold: hand-stitched sequin embellishments, tank tops constructed from loosely crochet suede cord, intricately patchworked tees and dress shirts, and plenty of distressed, slashed and shredded fabric. It was a visual feast, and a welcome jolt from the safety of many of the shows that are presented at New York Fashion Week.

The designer, Nicolas Petrou, on the far right

One of many patchwork tees

I loved the sequined detailing on the hood of this not-so-basic hoody




There were plenty of sequined knee patches and spiked sandals

An embossed pleather jacket

An embossed pleather vest

A razor cut jersey tee gave a peek of the bodysuit underneath

-Tiffany