Eternity Now

Student shows are always a mixed bag, which is exactly why they are usually so much fun to watch. While there are inevitably a fair a share of designers who look like Project Runway castoffs, there are also plenty of emerging talents. The Swedish School of Textiles Graduate Show is always saturated with the country's top creatives, and it was one of the shows I looked forward to seeing the most while I was in Stockholm.  While there are plenty of highlights that I will share with you later, I left with a singular obsession with Clara Flygare's collection, "Eternity Now." Combining uber-oversized tent-shaped dresses with hypnotic prints of pyramids, evil eyes, and pagan symbols, the models looked like Bedouin tribeswomen who had arrived at the Blair Witch Trial. I highly suggest you take a look at all of Clara's lookbook photos, as well as her film below. I think you will become obsessed too.

Lookbook photo by Per Moller 


I am the Maenad - Clara Flygare from Everyone We Know on Vimeo.

-Tiffany

Altewai.Saome Spring 2012

All photos by Kristian Loveborg.



One of the most unexpected surprises of Stockholm Fashion Week was the Altewai.Saome show. In a bout of laziness, I had seriously considered skipping the show after the Cheap Monday show that took place directly before it ended late. I am so happy I opted to go rather than taking a nap. I had never heard of the brand before, and had no idea what to expect, but what I ended up seeing was one of the best shows of fashion week, and a total departure from the minimalist designs I'm accustomed to seeing from Swedish designers. The Malmo based duo of Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome got their start working at various Italian fashion houses, including Fendi, before deciding three seasons ago to work together on their own line.



For Spring 2012, the designers were inspired by the prototypical modern woman, who balances work and career with an active social life, and whose wardrobe is both sporty and sophisticated. The combination might not sound entirely new, but the interpretation was brilliant. Sculptural neoprene and perforated textiles cut in athletic silhouettes, layered with heavy embroidery and sequined embellishment. The clothes are meant to be versatile enough to wear both to work, and to a late night out, and while I don't know how work appropriate these clothes are, they are definitely feel quite perfect for the dancefloor or a good night out.



Perhaps most importantly, even though the clothes have the fine finishing of a luxury brand out of Paris or Milan, the prices are shockingly reasonable, and in line with the price points of their fellow Swedish designers. Even though the Altewai.Saome flagship store in Malmo was closed when I visited on a day trip to the city on Sunday, I longingly pressed my nose against the windowpane and saw that the majority of the store was 70% off. Somewhat distraught that I could not enter, I found that most of the items are still available on their online shop, and many of the incredible sales clothes are around $100 or even less. As soon as I have a proper postal address in Sweden, I will be ordering myself some new clothes.

-Tiffany

Stranded!

Louise Bourgeois sculptures of--need I explain? At the Louisiana Museum outside of Copenhagen. Nakkna dress, Barbara Bui sandals, jacket designed by my Mom, Threeasfour bag, Alexander Wang sunglasses.



Of all places to be stranded, I can hardly complain about Copenhagen. Nonetheless, I've been away from home for the better part of a month, and was looking forward to getting back. Of course I have excellent luck with weather, and timed my arrival to coincide with Irene's. My flight home was canceled, and it's just as well-- my apartment is literally on the borderline of evacuation Zone C, so I consider myself successfully evacuated. I am wondering where all of the other evacuees are going as this whole hurrication thing is fun, but expensive.



If I only had some company here, I'd be much happier. Jimmy got on his flight back to Stockholm as scheduled, so I will be stranded here alone. I won't be joining him in Stockholm for another 2 months, but we had an amazing time visiting the Louisiana Museum before he left.



Anyway, if you are in Copenhagen, holler at me! And if you are on the east coast, stay safe and dry!











This guy was part of a puppet festival in Helsinki!



-Tiffany

Youth Quake: Cheap Monday Spring 2012

Now that Ann-Sofie Back shows her collection in London, the closest you can get to seeing her work at Stockholm Fashion Week is at the Cheap Monday show. The notoriously moody designer splits here time between heading her own collection, and leading the design team for the well-priced denim giant. Back's sources of inspiration are always conceptual, verging on abstract, and this season, the designer referenced the idealism, naivete, and unabashed optimism of her parent's generation as they forged new alternative lifestyles and followed utopian ideals. Nonetheless, the collection visually did not draw from the hippie aesthetic or the back to the land movement, and rather than a literal representation, the bright colors and big personality clothing distilled the essence of the carefree, joyous spirit of the time.

-Tiffany

Swedish Simplicity: Filippa K Spring 2012

Spending my last two days in Scandinavia in Copenhagen. I think I would be a lot sadder about leaving if I wasn't coming back in two months to a much colder, darker place. Even though it's going to be a rough winter involving lots of ugly weatherproof shoes, Scandinavians are always optimistic about their mild and chilly spring/summer season, and the feeling is contagious. Filippa K Spring 2012 embodies Swedish minimalist cool, the designer sent out her clean and pared-down designs in neutral colors infused with vivid splashes of orange, blue, and silver. Her show is always one of the most highly anticipated shows of Stockholm Fashion Week, and the setting of the Modern Museet was the perfect environment to display the timeless simplicity of the garments. My favorite pieces were tie-dyed in a hazy wash of steel blue and blush pink, and the tie-dye trouser pants are perfect for a typical not-very-warm Swedish summer day. Now if we could only fast-forward through the bone-chilling winter.

-Tiffany

Triskaidekaphobia Sample Sale!

I am in Tallin right now, but we will be having a great sample sale with our besties Jules of Bijules and Chris Habana. Make sure to stop by and stock up on all the jewelry you ever wanted but couldn't bear to pay full price for!

-Tiffany

V AVE

I had hoped to be more timely about my updates from Stockholm Fashion Week, but seeing as I'm on vacation, I've found my spare time filled with drinking way too much, way too late in the night. Also I've been eating lots of korv (sausage to non-Swedish speakers). SFW is over now, and while there are many more photos to come when I have better editing tools at hand, I couldn't wait to share one of my completely unedited photos from one of my favorite shows of the week, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair.



The line was one of the first Swedish labels that I fell in love with. However, since the company was founded, plenty of their signature draping styles, unconventional patterns, and asymmetrical cuts have trickled down through mainstream and mass market retailers like All Saints, and the items that were once so eye-opening are looking increasingly common and conventional. While the new collection contains many draping jersey pieces, the show concentrated on the handcrafted V AVE SHOE REPAIR ATELIER garments that fully explore the strong silhouettes and sculptural shapes that the designers are most interested in, using more complex materials and techniques which mega-chain stores will not be able to knock-off. Inspired by Hermann Rorschach (perhaps a theme of this season?), the designers created three dimensional interpretations of the artist's famous ink-blots, using transparent net fabrics to create giant ink blots that encircle the body. The soft forms were juxtaposed against handcarved wood accessories that sat on the shoulders and hips, giving some weight to pieces that looked like they might otherwise float away. It is nice to be reminded that in world where design is looking increasingly the same, some people still manage to excite.

-Tiffany